AERMOTOR WINDMILL SPECIFICATIONS
Model
#802 |
Mill Size
Wheel
Dia. |
STROKE
in inches |
#
of
Sails |
Ship
Wt.
lbs |
Max.
Strokes
per min |
at wind
velocity
mph |
Max.
Wheel
RPM |
Crated
Motor
Weight |
| Long |
Short |
| X |
6' |
5 |
3-3/4 |
18 |
210 |
32 |
15-18 |
125 |
100 |
| A |
8' |
7-1/8 |
5-1/2 |
18 |
355 |
32 |
15-18 |
105 |
175 |
| B |
10' |
9-1/4 |
7-1/4 |
18 |
655 |
26 |
15-18 |
85 |
330 |
| D |
12' |
11-1/4 |
8-1/4 |
18 |
1130 |
21 |
18-20 |
73 |
540 |
| E |
14' |
13-1/2 |
9-3/4 |
18 |
1870 |
18 |
18-20 |
62 |
805 |
| F |
16' |
14-7/8 |
11-3/8 |
18 |
2585 |
16 |
18-20 |
53 |
1180 |
The Aermotor windmill can be completely assembled on the
ground and hoisted onto the tower with a crane, boom truck or other similar equipment. It
can also be assembled on the tower. The method selected will depend on the installers
experience, his equipment and the size of the windmill. A gin pole, block and tackle for
hoisting the mill into position is satisfactory for smaller size mills. Larger sizes will
need a crane or boom truck to accomplish the installation.
The Aermotor windmill can be installed on any brand steel
windmill tower, or you can use a wood tower, with the use of a stub tower that bolts
to the top of the old tower to match the notching around the post that you set the mill
on. No stub tower is needed if you are replacing an Aermotor. Be sure your tower is strong
enough to support the weight of your new mill.
Assembly of the stub tower begins by installing the post
into the stub and bolting it in place. Measure the stub 4" above the bottom if it is
for a steel tower, or 6" above if it is for a wood tower, and saw off the old tower
at the point where it is the same width.
Slip the stub over the top of the old tower, plumb it very
carefully so the mill mast pipe will be perfectly aligned vertically, and mark and drill
holes for the bolts. Use 4 bolts in each corner. |
DIMENSIONS AT
BASE OF STUB TOWER
3' STUBS DO NOT COME WITH PLATFORM |
| Mill Size |
6' & 8' |
10' |
12' |
14' |
16' |
| Stub Height |
|
|
|
|
|
| 3' |
9-1/2" |
10" |
|
|
|
| 4' |
11-1/2" |
|
13-1/4" |
13-1/4" |
|
| 7' |
19" |
19" |
20-1/4" |
20-1/4" |
21-5/8" |
| 14' |
35" |
|
|
|
|
|
Be sure your platform is
strong and secure. Replacements are available. |

|
WHEEL SAIL SECTION ASSEMBLY |
Slide a sail rib (#101) over the small end of the
sail toward the large end until it fits into the rectangular hole in the sail (#100), as
indicated in the drawing. Repeat this process for all 18 sails.
Lay three sails in position as shown in drawing. Connect the
inner band (#35) to the sail tab with bolts and lock nuts. Do not tighten the lock nuts
yet. Note the distance that should extend in dimension 2 table.
Slide the outer band (#34) through the rectangular hole in the
sails until bolt holes of outer band match the bolt holes in the sail ribs. Dimension 1
indicates the correct measurement when #34 is installed correctly.
Tighten all lock nuts in wheel section and repeat this procedure
until the other 5 sections are completed. |
| #799 Complete Wheel Check list |
| Sails #100 |
18 |
| Sail Ribs #101 |
18 |
| Outer Bands #34 |
6 |
| Inner Bands #35 |
6 |
| Wheel Arms w/nuts #736 |
12 |
| Bolts for sails |
56 |
| Lock nuts for sails |
56 |
| Furl Wire |
25' |
|
| MEASUREMENTS ON #34 & #35 |
| MILLS |
6' |
8' |
10' |
12' |
14' |
16' |
| Dimension 1 |
7/8" |
1-3/8" |
2-3/8" |
1-7/8" |
3-1/8" |
3" |
| Dimension 2 |
1-7/8" |
2-5/8" |
3-1/2" |
3-3/4" |
4-3/8" |
5-1/8" |
Note that dimension 1
relates to distance between sail rib bolt hole and the first of two holes on the end of
the #34 outer wheel band. Dimension 2 refers to the distance from the sail tie to
the end hole on the #35 inner wheel band. These are taken with sails laying down and
measured on left. |
|
Assemble
the mast pipe with base into top of tower by putting the mast pipe into the top of the
tower and securing the corner of the base with a short bolt, on the same corner as the
furl handle is mounted at the base of the tower. Use the two longer bolts to secure the
supporting angles on the furl lever to the side opposite the one which the furl handle is
to be, so the furl wire will pull across the tower and clear the inner edge of the
platform.
Remove the #578 locknut and #579 lockwasher from the top of the
mast pipe. Grease pack the friction washers #576 in the turntable, as well as greasing the
mast pipe stem. Slide the upper furl ring down over the mast pipe and put it in position
on top of the lower furl ring.
Install the crated motor on the mast pipe using a gin pole, block
and tackle or crane, depending on the size of the mill and equipment available. Once the
motor is in place on the mast pipe, put the lockwasher and locknut onto the top of the
mast pipe and tighten the nut.
Remove the round pivot bolt #510 from the tail bone and place it
into the top lug on the back of the main gear box case, through the bracket on the #659
buffer device, and through the bottom lug on the motor. Hook the head of a #528 furl arm
into the cup on the #786 brake lever casting and slide the other end of the #786 up onto
the pivot pin on the bottom side of the case at the shaft side of the motor and install
the cotter pin to retain it. The other #528 goes into the cup on the end of the #585
tailbone casting. Then slide the #585 onto the bottom of the #510 pivot bolt. Place one
end of the #527 connecting rod into the midpoint hole of the #786 and up through the hole
in the #585 at the opposite end as the cup. These rods should all be straight and no need
for bending is necessary.
Install the tailbone and vane over the top of the stud end of the
#510 pivot bolt, and the bottom end will align with the bottom of the pivot bolt, allowing
you to secure it with a bolt through the #510 and the tailbone. Be sure that the lug on
the bottom of the end of the #585 hooks over the bottom of the tailbone so it can furl the
mill out of gear.
Slide the #171 pull rod up through the center of the mast pipe
unit and connect the head of it into the base of the #608 yoke, using the #610 pin to
secure it. Screw the #580 vane spring hook into the motor case between the pivot and the
buffer. When properly installed and tight, it will stand with the open side facing away
from the tailbone. Hook the #28 vane spring onto one of the holes in the tailbone, and the
other end on the #580 vane spring hook. The end of the #28 vane spring with the long hook
goes into the tailbone hole, and the open side of the hook faces up. For maximum speed
hook the spring into the farthest hole on the tailbone. When you wish for the mill to be
furled out of the wind at a low speed, you connect to the first hole in the tailbone.
There are holes in between that will allow you to select a speed that is desired.
Attach the furl wire to the end of the furl lever and route it
down through the platform and across the tower to the furl handle below, on the opposite
side of the tower. When installed this way on a 4 post tower, the wire clears both the
platform and the pump pole. Adjust the furl handle so the arms of the furl lever will bear
onto the nuts of the bolts that hold the supporting angles, when pulled completely down.
Furl the mill out of the wind and be sure the furl handle is
secure so there is no chance of the wheel turning into the wind, while you assemble the
wheel.
Go to windmill instructions, part 2 to proceed with the
assembly of the wheel. |
|